Jewish Holiday Cooking

December 17, 2007
Cohen (The Gefilte Variations
) celebrates both the variety and spirit of Jewish holidays and the variety of Jewish cooking in this appealing book. Each major holiday throughout the year, from Rosh Hashanah in the fall to Shavuot in early summer, has its own section of recipes, as does the weekly Sabbath; strictly observant Jews as well as those who are not entirely familiar with the religious significance of all the events will appreciate Cohen's detailed comments on their history and meaning at the beginning of each section. Those with less experience in planning big feasts will also be grateful for the variety of menu suggestions that accompany each holiday: Passover seders, a Hanukkah latke party with superb traditional and nontraditional latkes, a vegetarian dinner for Sukkot. Cohen draws on Jewish cuisine from every tradition: Leek Croquettes from Rhodes, stuffed chicken soup from Iran and a pineapple-coconut milk kugel from Bombay are just a few of the pleasantly exotic yet authentic offerings; she also puts new twists on old standards, as with Moroccan-flavored brisket and “deconstructed” kasha varnishkes that feature portobello mushrooms and eggplant in lieu of quantities of fat. Each recipe is helpfully coded to indicate whether it is meat, dairy or pareve, though she often provides variations to accommodate all needs in this book that's enjoyable to read and inspiring to cook from.

March 1, 2008
This large and informative book by Cohen ("The Gefilte Variations") is arranged by the Jewish calendar, starting with recipes and menus for Rosh Hashanah and ending with Shavuot, along with suggestions for weekly Sabbath meals. Cooking from scratch is the point here, although a food processor does speed things up somewhat. There is also a detailed introduction and information on the "Jewish kitchen," including what makes meat kosher and discussions of other ingredients. A glossary and list of web sites and sources are included at the end. The layout is somewhat confusing, though, with similar items under different holidays. Thus, there are several variations on kugel, the sweet or savory noodle pudding, scattered throughout. The recipes themselves sound delicious, with many interesting options augmenting traditional favorites. Purchase where there is interest; a great addition to a holiday-themed display.Susan Hurst, Miami Univ. Libs., Oxford, OH

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