The Way We Ate

September 16, 2013
The alliance of New York City food photographers/bloggers Fecks and Wagtouicz (thewayweate.net) has created a cook’s tour of the American 20th century in an anthology of recipes inspired by 100 years of American culinary history. These self-described “curators” of the now defunct Gourmet magazine recruited an impressive lineup of 100 notable chefs and food folks, inviting each to design an iconic recipe. Featured culinarians include Ruth Reichl, Daniel Boulud, Jacques Pépin, Melissa Clark, and many other restaurateurs, cooks, and journalists. Each reflects on watershed historical events and culinary milestones, creating both innovative interpretations of classic recipes and original dishes befitting one year of the century. Chapters are organized by decades. Lively headers describe the cultural and historical context shaping the dish; ingredients are clearly listed in margins along with anecdotal quotations; and chef bios follow each chef’s recipe. Stylish photographs in extreme close-up—taken by the authors—bring each recipe to life. From a 1919 Great Gatsby–inspired Long Island “Sound Off” fish stew to a sliced foie gras with buttered toast soubise; blackberry-port mostarda; crispy pork; and soft blue cheese (which honors the 1922 invention of the pop-up toaster), these recipes take readers on a trek through food history and into the culinary imaginations of modern food enthusiasts who are shaping the current food scene.

October 15, 2013

Celebrated bloggers and food photographers Fecks and Wagtouicz have dreamed up an interesting idea here: 100 chefs have created recipes to represent each year of the 20th century. The authors have gathered a group of impressive chefs and notable personalities, including Jacques Pepin, Melissa Clark, Daniel Boulud, Jasper White, and Jose Andres. The book highlights some fascinating tidbits of history from the last century, such as the cultivation of the Hass avocado and the invention of the first electric ice cream machine. However, somehow, this work never quite comes together. The relationships between the recipes and historical events are often unclear, and many of the recipes are unrealistic for a home cook, calling for hard-to-find ingredients and offering vague instructions. The recipes would have benefited from a consistent voice and additional notes on technique and ingredients. VERDICT Neither a coherent history nor a useful cookbook. This title is a mildly entertaining read, and its photographs and design are beautiful, but after admiring its style, home cooks will find themselves putting it back on the shelf.--Laura Krier, Sonoma State Univ., Rohnert Park, CA

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