Classic Russian Cuisine

November 1, 1993
Sacharow, Russian-born, assembles recipes from all over the former Soviet Union, attending to the Russian and the regional without lightening traditionally rich and hearty stuff. The result is a lot to choose from, some of it very attractive, and some probably worth avoiding. There are wonderful-sounding Russian salads and pickled vegetables, for instance; but doesn't the heart stop at the thought of ``Stuffed Beef Stomach,'' ``Deep-Fried Calf's Brain'' and ``Larded Liver''? (An entire chapter, entitled ``Innards,'' seems ill-considered for current American taste.) A section, however, on pancakes and crepes is toothesome, with vegetarian, sweet and meaty options. Fruit desserts (carrot souffle, sour cherry pudding) also appeal. Sacharow does not confine herself to foods, but takes on nonalcoholic kvass, various honey drinks, and others. The reach of the book is impressive, as is her zeal in presenting authentic (and sometimes seemingly odd) fare. For instance, consider her cautionary note on nettles, an occasional ingredient: ``Mostly unavailable in American stores. (Can be picked in open fields.)'' Photos not seen by PW.