Texas BBQ

June 15, 2015

Can a barbecue cookbook first published in Sweden tempt an American audience? In the case of journalist Cramby's debut--which collects recipes from central, east, and west Texas--the answer is yes. After introducing smoking tools and techniques, Cramby shows readers how to prepare such dishes as ancho-braised short ribs, sourdough tortillas, and fajitas. The measurements and directions for these recipes are not without translation quirks (e.g., "wheat sourdough" is presumably sourdough starter, but that's never made clear), but motivated cooks, who will be drawn to Cramby's stunning photography, can work out such peculiarities.

Tex-Mex from Scratch, Cramby's follow-up to Texas BBQ, includes not only barbecue but also appetizers, breakfasts, drinks, and desserts. In chapters named for these courses, the author shares Tex-Mex favorites, including guacamole, huevos rancheros, paletas (ice pops), and agua fresca. Some of these dishes will be familiar, but others suggest uncommon ingredient combinations. Overall, the book benefits from a broader range of recipes and more editorial polish than its predecessor. VERDICT Texas BBQ is a treat for armchair cooks and can broaden regional collections. Cramby, whose daughters are named Dixie Margarita and Lone Star, has an infectious passion for Tex-Mex food and a talent for food photography. Of his available and forthcoming titles, Tex-Mex from Scratch offers the best value.

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