The Wine Lover Cooks Italian

May 2, 2005
When the topic is wine, writers often lapse into pompous wordiness or, in an effort to connect with a younger, hipper audience, groove up their language to the point where they could be describing anything from rock music to sneakers. The author of this volume, a noted wine writer who has published several books on the subject (The Perfect Match; A Perfect Glass of Wine), mercifully does neither. Instead, he uses simple, engaging language to describe the many wines of Italy, explaining their provenance, their taste and how they should be served. He pairs his discussion of wines with a compilation of traditional Italian recipes, and while none of his picks are ground-breaking, most are appetizing and easy to prepare. From the Northeast, he offers a simple and enticing Pear Salad with Walnuts and Cheese, suggesting a Pinot Grigio as an accompaniment. From the Adriatic, he presents a seductive recipe for Epicures' Macaroni and Cheese with Truffle Oil, which goes nicely with a Rosso Conero. Southern Italy is represented by Grilled Fish Steaks on Peperonata, to be drunk with a Negroamaro. Truth be told, anyone with an Italian cookbook probably already has the recipes for these dishes, as well as a few more inventive ones, but what makes this volume useful is its dignified and intelligent discussion of Italian wines and the foods they best accompany.

May 9, 2005
When the topic is wine, writers often lapse into pompous wordiness or, in an effort to connect with a younger, hipper audience, groove up their language to the point where they could be describing anything from rock music to sneakers. The author of this volume, a noted wine writer who has published several books on the subject (The Perfect Match; A Perfect Glass of Wine), mercifully does neither. Instead, he uses simple, engaging language to describe the many wines of Italy, explaining their provenance, their taste and how they should be served. He pairs his discussion of wines with a compilation of traditional Italian recipes, and while none of his picks are ground-breaking, most are appetizing and easy to prepare. From the Northeast, he offers a simple and enticing Pear Salad with Walnuts and Cheese, suggesting a Pinot Grigio as an accompaniment. From the Adriatic, he presents a seductive recipe for Epicures' Macaroni and Cheese with Truffle Oil, which goes nicely with a Rosso Conero. Southern Italy is represented by Grilled Fish Steaks on Peperonata, to be drunk with a Negroamaro. Truth be told, anyone with an Italian cookbook probably already has the recipes for these dishes, as well as a few more inventive ones, but what makes this volume useful is its dignified and intelligent discussion of Italian wines and the foods they best accompany.

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