The Prophets of Smoked Meat

April 1, 2013
The first release on Anthony Bourdain’s line for Ecco is from self-described “BBQ snob” Vaughn. expert on the various styles of Texas barbecue who offers page after page of exhaustive dissertation on the intricacies of brisket, sausage, and other smoked meats, as he traverses the state. The book is divided into four sections based on region (east, central, west, and south) that each have their own specialties, and Vaughn and photographer Nicholas McWhirther work their way through plate after plate of barbecue with nary a vegetable in sight. Vaughn offers detailed, informed critiques of countless eateries with varying results. Though an admitted Yankee from Ohio, his expertise is unassailable. Vaughn’s got over 500 BBQ joints under his belt and he’s a fair judge of the good, the bad, and the mediocre when it comes to smoked meat. Unfortunately for some of the proprietors listed, a great many joints end up in the “mediocre” category, as he holds them to a justifiably high standard. Vaughn does an admirable job of keeping readers’ interest with asides on rubs, and a meditation on the role of rotisseries in barbecue. The book also contains studies of some of the cuisine’s colorful proprietors (many of whom provide recipes in the book’s appendix), but it’s the hardcore barbecue nerds and Texans who will get the most out of Vaughn’s efforts. Casual smokers will likely find the book to be repetitive and maybe even depressing as the indictment of bad briskets, overcooked ribs, and commercially produced sausage mounts.

Starred review from August 1, 2013
Stomachs will ache at the thought of cabeza de vaca (cow's head), beef clod (beef shoulder), or barbecue brisket (among other delicacies). Undeterred, architect and barbecue fanatic Vaughn, along with photographer Nicholas McWhirter and occasional sidekicks, did a hunting, gathering, and tasting journey throughout Texas to find the best barbecue. Out of the 186 places sampled, only 5 made his best list; the journey to him, though, is worth it. Beginning with the universal definition of barbecue as simply seasoned meat cooked to tenderness over hardwood smoke, the author not only delivers a running commentary on the goodness (or lack thereof) of the proteins, sides, and desserts, he also gives an almost-native's perspective on the culture. Joints close when they run out of meat, often at 2 p.m., sometimes earlier. Fat counts: The value of well-smoked fat cannot be understated. So do desserts; there's nothing better, Vaughn states, to counteract protein overload than a bit of something sweet. At the end, 20-ish pit masters are singled out for the specialties (mutton ribs, anyone?), providing quasi-recipes (details on meat, rub, wood, pit, fire, cooking time, it's done when . . . suggestions, resting, and other pro tips) with the assumption that you'll know how to interpret this shorthand. The first in a series of Anthony Bourdainbranded books.(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2013, American Library Association.)