Duck, Duck, Goose

August 5, 2013
Shaw, author of the award-winning blog Hunter Angler Gardener Cook, extends the concept of nose-to-tail cooking to “bill to feet” in this original and beguiling collection. While duck is seeing a resurgence on restaurant menus, many people are reluctant to cook it at home. Shaw aims to impart the specialized knowledge needed to properly cook both domesticated and wild varieties of these birds. He starts with the basics, which include describing the various breeds of water fowl, how to break down a whole bird, and storage. There are chapters for recipes that deal with whole ducks, pieces, and extras (offal), and some of these recipes are fairly standard, including those for roast ducks or geese and confit. Thankfully, Shaw goes on to aptly demonstrate the versatility of these birds with Duck Fried Rice, Two Ways; Italian-style Duck Meatballs; and a gumbo with duck and shrimp. Recipes such as goose stew with barley and celery root, and pan-roasted goose breasts with orange and ouzo highlight several inviting goose offerings. Shaw’s extras are stellar and worth trying, not only because they’re so unusual but because they’re truly appetizing. These include duck heart tartare puttanesca; duck liver ravioli; and goose prosciutto. Sausages, hot dogs, and pie dough round out this eclectic but tasty host of offerings that beg to be tried. Agent: Jason Yarn, Paradigm.

Starred review from September 15, 2013

Shaw, author of the James Beard and International Association of Culinary Professionals Award-winning blog Hunter Angler Gardener Cook, has worked as a line cook, clam digger, and political reporter. Shaw's extensive journalistic experience is one of many reasons his boldly titled second cookbook, a "bill to feet" guide to preparing farmed and wild waterfowl, is so successful. Shaw consulted numerous sources to compile information he keenly relates to readers, such as how to hunt the tastiest wild species and how to hang, pluck, gut, and butcher a bird. Duck fat ("God's gift to potatoes") is an ingredient in nearly all these recipes, which range from quick and simple to extremely difficult. VERDICT A masterpiece. Even if you never plan to cook a goose, this enlightening guide is a fascinating read.

Copyright 2013 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.