The Herbal Kitchen

June 6, 2005
The James Beard Award–winning chef of the Herbfarm near Seattle, Traunfeld (The Herbfarm Cookbook
) certainly knows a thing or two about cooking masterfully with fresh herbs. Whereas his first book celebrated restaurant-status dishes, this volume concerns simple dishes for the home cook. Traunfeld concisely introduces the basics of starting one's own herb garden; storing herbs; chopping, slicing and tearing herbs; and measuring herbs. Then he launches into the redolent recipes, many as straightforward as Prosciutto Melon with Lime and Cilantro; Dilled Celery, Asian Pear, and Hazelnut Salad; and Lemon Rosemary Chicken enhanced with dried currants and green olives. Recipes in the "Intimate Feasts" chapter, including Sea Scallops on Summer Succotash, and Lavender-Rubbed Duck Breast with Apricots and Sweet Onions, can stand as complete and creative meals, or be paired with a side from the vegetables chapter, such as Mashed Winter Squash with Bay Butter, or Salt-Roasted Potatoes. Herb-infused desserts like Strawberry Rose Geranium Ice Cream are lovely and not heavy. Throughout, Traunfeld offers insight into the use of specific herbs and ingredients, creating a work that is at once practical, informative and inspiring. Color photos.

July 15, 2005
In Traunfeld's new cookbook (he received an International Association of Culinary Professionals Award in 2000 for "The Herbfarm Cookbook"), 100 clearly written recipes are arranged by occasion or subject -intimate dinners, fast suppers, beverages and breads, even dog biscuits. The first chapter introduces the herb garden and techniques for picking, storing, and preparing herbs; the herbs themselves and their varieties are described and recommended before the first recipe in which they are used. Several recipes from Traunfeld's Herbfarm restaurant, where he has served as chef for 14 years, have been modified for the home kitchen using everyday ingredients, e.g., a tomato bread using fresh tomatoes, Italian bread, basil, and olive oil. Other dishes are unique -beef tenderloin poached in olive oil, garlic, and thyme. For libraries catering to herb gardeners and anyone who enjoys simple yet delicious meals. (Index not seen.) -Christine Bulson, SUNY at Oneonta Lib.

Copyright 2005 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.