To the Bone

November 11, 2013
At age 24 Liebrandt was the youngest chef ever to receive a three-star New York Times review. In 2011, HBO filmed a documentary on his ascent and his obsessions: perfection on the table and approval from the critics. Now, at age 37, he has co-written his memoir with Friedman, and thrown in 30 of his favorite recipes to boot. Moody, in a Garry Kasparov genius kind of way, and bemoaning his lonely but not atypical childhood, Liebrandt makes it clear that the path to greatness requires total dedication. And while a life spent in the kitchen makes for a stunning rhubarb, strawberry, and cucumber royale, here it also makes for a somewhat narrow life story. For those who cannot get enough of long nights toiling in aprons across London, Paris, and New York, there are ample tales of his big breaks and small plates. Others might be happier with the 60 color photos of his work, or with the I-dare-you recipes for dishes like blowfish with vadouvan spice and burnt laurel. The biggest problem with a mid-career autobiography is that it occurs in mid-career; this volume ends just as Liebrandt is planning a new restaurant in Williamsburg, Brooklyn.

December 1, 2013

While many chefs make their first forays into the culinary arts in college, chef Liebrandt (recipient of two Michelin stars, co-owner of the Elm restaurant in Brooklyn, and star of the HBO documentary A Matter of Taste: Serving up Paul Liebrandt) decided at the age of 16 that he wanted to be where the action was. For almost two years at the London restaurant L'Escargot, he worked and lived with other chefs, mastering dishes such as pommes souffle and tortellini. Liebrandt's experiences taught him that he was a gifted cook and motivated him to seek out those whom he could learn from (including Marco Pierre White, Raymond Blanc, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and Pierre Gagnaire) as he grew to become a chef in his own right. Breathtaking photos (as much as art as they are food) are included, along with recipes such as duck leg torte and green-apple wasabi sorbet. Liebrandt's writing style is approachable, and whether readers enjoy upscale dining or just a good biography, they'll find the tale of this chef's rise to fame an entertaining and engaging read. VERDICT A wonderful mix of passion, food, and life stories. Those who devoured Anthony Bourdain's Kitchen Confidential will be delighted to discover this delicious read.--Carrie Scarr, West Fargo P.L., ND

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