Into the Clouds

January 15, 2020
Olson details the first three attempts by Americans to summit K2. K2, at 28,250 feet, is the second-highest mountain in the Himalayan chain and is considered by climbers the most difficult of the over-8,000-meter peaks, of which Everest is the highest. In 1938, when Olson's gripping tale begins, no one had climbed K2. Medical student Charlie Houston and his handpicked team were tasked by the American Alpine Club to scout a route up K2 so that another team headed by climber Fritz Wiessner could summit the following year. Enduring frigid cold and danger, Houston and another climber reached 26,000 feet before descending. Wiessner's attempt the following year, plagued by poor management, failed to summit also and resulted in four deaths. Fifteen years later, in 1953, Charlie Houston tried again. Olson writes with assurance and empathy, detailing the nearly unbelievable hardships borne by the climbers and narratively balancing the individuals' obsession to summit against the humanity of the so-called "brotherhood of the rope"--climbers are roped together, therefore literally dependent on one another for their lives. He takes care to include the porters and Sherpas of these early expeditions--too often considered merely as servants by the wealthy white men who hired them--by including photographs and giving them equal credit in his narrative. Gripping, well-researched, superb entertainment. (author's note, sources, notes) (Nonfiction. 10-18)

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Starred review from March 1, 2020

Gr 3-7-Olson writes a fascinating account of three early K2 expeditions, all of whom were trying to be the first to climb the mountain. The K2 peak is the second highest peak in the world and is considered by climbers to be the most dangerous. All three American teams were unable to achieve their goals, but their stories are riveting. The first and third expeditions were led by Charlie Houston. The first expedition in 1938 provided valuable information for the second expedition led by Fritz Wiessner. The German American climber was eager to be the first to reach the summit and didn't want Houston to take the honor. The text describes each team's members and their various strengths, weaknesses, and interesting characteristics. Olson whisks readers away to the harsh climate and rugged adventure of climbing. Climbers persevere in the face of adversity, brave fierce elements, and make life-altering decisions. The motivation and determination of the climbers is at turns admirable and questionable. Readers learn about leadership skills, teamwork, and how each climber has a different approach to tackling the mountain. The book is packed with historical photographs that highlight the climbers and the terrain. Back matter includes the gear, an author's note, sources, and source notes. VERDICT An absolute must-have for all readers looking for well-researched and gripping adventure nonfiction.-Helen Foster James, University of California at San Diego

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March 16, 2020
Numerous suspenseful survival stories make up this detailed portrayal of three attempts by 20th-century Americans to reach the summit of the 28,250-foot-high Himalayan peak known as K2, the world’s second highest. Opening at a critical moment in the final attempt, in 1953, the book circles back to the first expedition in 1938, then continues chronologically back to that opening moment. Climbers are introduced with identifying characteristics, and the arduous climbs, executed in the face of unrelenting dangers such as blizzards, frostbite, and lack of oxygen, are replayed in gripping, step-by-step descriptions. Olson emphasizes the vital roles played by Sherpas and other groups who served as porters, taking care to outline the vast differences between the white climbers’ and the Sherpas’ clothing, gear, and conditions, and the occasional power struggles that arose between the two groups. Filled with tense moments, the book explores the question of what draws people to risk their lives climbing hostile mountains, as well as the importance of strong leadership,
loyalty, and “the fellowship of the rope.” Black-and-white photos underscore the life-threatening nature of these historic expeditions. Ages 8–12.

March 15, 2020
Grades 6-9 In the twenty-first century, climbers who successfully conquer Mt. Everest are common. But back in the 1930s, '40s, and '50s, this was an unusual feat. In this riveting account of three failed attempts to climb K2 (slightly lower than Everest), Olson portrays two very different approaches to success. In 1938, Charlie Houston focused his attention on keeping his team safe as they neared the summit, ultimately turning back due to foul weather. Then in 1939, Fritz Wiessner sought (unsuccessfully) to reach the summit at all costs, causing the death of several men. In 1953, Houston made another attempt with a trusted team and knowledge acquired from his 1938 ascent. Again, near the summit, they fought a frightful, lengthy blizzard and were forced into a harrowing descent. Their heroic efforts, however, have become part of climbing legend. Olson's meticulously documented research and creative writing make this an unforgettable story of courage and determination. The book's copious photos of the Himalaya's snowy slopes and of the climbing teams add more drama to an already gripping saga.(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2020, American Library Association.)