It Ain't Sauce, It's Gravy

October 20, 2014
Martorano was born into a family with mob ties in South Philadelphia, and the glamor of crime and easy money exerted a strong pull on him until he started his own sandwich business, which developed into a chain of successful restaurants. Martorano shares that dramatic story arc, along with the recipes that have made his restaurants so successful, in this engaging and mouthwatering collection of Italian classics. From the Italian hoagie that got him started to upscale fare like the elegant prosciutto-wrapped pappardelle with cream and truffle oil now served in his restaurants—not to mention the meatballs that Gourmet magazine called the best in the world—Martorano eagerly and generously shares his tips and secrets. Readers with a soft spot for Italian comfort food will find a lot to like: a grilled hot and sweet sausage summer salad; duck Bolognese; veal piccata; and chicken on the bone, a rustic dish featuring roasted chicken, sausages, mushrooms, and tomatoes, all beg for a turn. A thoughtful compilation of the familiar and the imaginative, paired with a compelling narrative, makes for an engaging and informative addition to the Italian cookbook canon.

October 15, 2014
Americans have embraced Italian cooking as their most popular cuisine, whether preparing it at home or eating it in restaurants. The Italian American cuisine that immigrants developed over the course of the twentieth century is now giving way to an Italian cuisine more specifically connected to the original cooking of Italy's many and distinctive regions. So it's bracing to see a contemporary restaurateur celebrating that older style. Philadelphia-bred Martorano had a typical upbringing in the streets that gave him the physical and attitudinal stamina to be a successful chef. His mother and grandmother taught him how to cook, and he has established their meatballs as a renowned institution in Florida and Las Vegas. Recipes are generally easy to follow and don't require many difficult-to-source ingredients. As significant as his inventory of recipes is his narration of an edgy youth and early brushes with the law before redemption through discovering a deep passion for cooking.(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2014, American Library Association.)