
The Gourmands' Way
Six Americans in Paris and the Birth of a New Gastronomy
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Starred review from August 14, 2017
As Spring (Secret Historian: The Life and Times of Samuel Steward, Professor, Tattoo Artist, and Sexual Renegade) points out in his excellent culinary history, six American writers introduced French cuisine to American restaurants and home kitchens and were responsible for the nation’s postwar love affair with French food and wine. Richard Olney, in Simple French Food and other books, demonstrated that good cooking was a matter of improvisation, like playing jazz. Julia Child and her collaborator Simone Beck Fischbacher produced Mastering the Art of French Cooking, which took the fear out of cooking French meals at home. Alexis Lichine introduced Americans to the bouquets and beauties of French wines in Wines of France and his more ambitious Alexis Lichine’s Encyclopedia of Wines and Spirits. Alice B. Toklas delivered a memoir told through the recipes of The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook after her companion, Gertrude Stein, died. Novelist turned food writer M.F.K. Fisher recalled her own glorious moments of eating and drinking as a way of writing about some of her darkest life experiences in Gastronomical Me, and New Yorker writer A.J. Liebling wrote about glorious French repasts with brio and humor in Between Meals: An Appetite for Paris. Spring’s book is a wonderful culinary history.

Narrator Bronson Pinchot's excellent French accent sets the mood for this well-researched, somewhat gossipy account of six classic American food writers and their lifelong love of France and its food and wine. During the postwar years, A.J. Liebling, Alice B. Toklas, M.F.K. Fisher, Julia Child, Alexis Lichine, and Richard Olney lived, ate, and drank all things French, crossing paths through their shared passions and mutual acquaintances. Their cookbooks, guides, and articles forever changed America's expectations of both restaurant and home dining. Pinchot's soft, nonjudgmental delivery allows listeners to come to their own conclusions as they peek behind the facade of whitewashed fame and good PR. Pinchot deftly signals the numerous extracts and footnotes and wisely refrains from using distinct voices for the famous gourmands. C.B.L. � AudioFile 2017, Portland, Maine
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