In Defense of Food

Starred review from November 26, 2007
In his hugely influential treatise The Omnivore’s Dilemma
, Pollan traced a direct line between the industrialization of our food supply and the degradation of the environment. His new book takes up where the previous work left off. Examining the question of what to eat from the perspective of health, this powerfully argued, thoroughly researched and elegant manifesto cuts straight to the chase with a maxim that is deceptively simple: “Eat food, not too much, mostly plants.†But as Pollan explains, “food†in a country that is driven by “a thirty-two billion-dollar marketing machine†is both a loaded term and, in its purest sense, a holy grail. The first section of his three-part essay refutes the authority of the diet bullies, pointing up the confluence of interests among manufacturers of processed foods, marketers and nutritional scientists—a cabal whose nutritional advice has given rise to “a notably unhealthy preoccupation with nutrition and diet and the idea of eating healthily.†The second portion vivisects the Western diet, questioning, among other sacred cows, the idea that dietary fat leads to chronic illness. A writer of great subtlety, Pollan doesn’t preach to the choir; in fact, rarely does he preach at all, preferring to lets the facts speak for themselves.

Starred review from September 1, 2014

Journalist Pollan argues that we should only eat the sort of things that our great grandmothers would recognize.

Copyright 2014 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

January 1, 2008
Expanding on a theme from his popular The Omnivores Dilemma (2007), Pollan mounts an assault on a reigning theory of the relationship between food and health. For Pollan, nutritionism offers too narrow a view of the role of eating, confining its benefits solely to foods chemical constituents. This has resulted in an unnatural anxiety about the things we humans eat. To counteract this, Pollan appeals to tradition and common sense. The Western diet, with its focus on meat as the principal food, producescardiovascular problems, and nutritionists attempts to correct this with a high-carbohydrate and sugar regimen has served only to spawn a generation of obese diabetics. Although Pollan doesnt advocate eliminating meat or any other whole food, he wants to place vegetables and fruits in the center of things, reassigning meat to the status of a side dish. Given the continuing fascination with Pollans earlier work, this smaller tome will surely generate heavy demand.(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2008, American Library Association.)