The Sushi Economy

Starred review from February 19, 2007
In this intriguing first book, Philadelphia-based journalist Issenberg roams the globe in search of sushi and takes the reader on a cultural, historical and economic journey through the raw-fish trade that reads less like economics and more like an entertaining culinary travelogue. In the years since the end of WWII, the practical protein-and-rice delicacy once unknown outside Japan has become so commonplace that the elements of its trade affect a far-flung global network of fanatics, chefs, tuna ranchers and pirates. While the West reached out for things Japanese, from management techniques to Walkmans, the growth of the market for quality fish, especially maguro
, the bluefin tuna beloved by sushi eaters everywhere, paralleled Japan's rise from postwar ruin to 1980s economic powerhouse and into its burst-bubble present. Issenberg follows every possible strand in this worldwide web of history, economics and cuisine—an approach that keeps the book lively with colorful places and characters, from the Tokyo fish market to the boats of North Atlantic fishermen, from tuna ranches off the coast of Australia to the sushi bars in Austin, Tex. He weaves the history of the art and cuisine of sushi throughout, and his smart, lively voice makes the most arcane information fascinating.

May 1, 2007
From Prince Edward Island to Tokyo's massive Tsukiji Market to California, the Bahamas, Argentina, Spain, Australia, and Chinato refrigerated cases in grocery stores and food courts and walk-up counters and carts across Japan and the United States, sushi has evolved from a quick snack to the repast of high-powered businessmen to a cultural reference simultaneously mocking and worshiping at the altar of wealth and celebrity (see the Christina Aguilera roll at Hamasaku in Los Angeles). It exists both as a commonplace and as a luxury. Journalist Issenberg's beautifully written book reveals the complex web of commerce, culture, and culinary expertise that hauls fish from the sea, ships it around the world, and delivers it artfully to the plate. Sprinkled throughout with fascinating character studies of the many buyers, importers, sushi chefs, restaurateurs, critics, and diners who make the wheels turn, this work is solidly rooted in placeallowing one to tour four continents slowly. It makes enjoying sushi not only a delight for the palate but also a thought-provoking repast for the mind. Recommended for all libraries.Courtney Greene, DePaul Univ. Lib., Chicago

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