The Connoisseur's Guide to Sushi

August 8, 2005
Lowry, restaurant critic for St. Louis Magazine
, offers an amenable guide to the little-known (to Westerners) world of sushi. A sort of sushi appreciation course, the book covers everything from the cuisine's history (it wasn't until 1834 that people started eating the kind of sushi we're used to) to the various kinds of sushi (hand-pressed, wrapped and rolled, etc.) and a reasonably comprehensive explanation of ingredients like aji
(horse mackerel), kajiki
(swordfish) and uni
(sea urchin). Lowry's easygoing style can get a little grating—as he sidetracks into his umpteenth foray, some readers may want to scream "get to the point already!"—but you can't fault him for being approachable. Among his lessons: adding wasabe to a dish of soy sauce for dipping is a big no-no, as is dipping a piece of nigiri
sushi (rice with a slice of fish on top) into a bowl of soy sauce rice-side-down (flip the piece upside down just long enough so the fish side is touched with soy sauce). For many people, sushi restaurants are intimidating places, and Lowry's handbook will serve them well as a friendly lifeline.

October 1, 2005
Sushi bars and restaurants offer a dizzying and often confusing array of choices for diners unfamiliar with the specialized techniques and ingredients. Lowry, the restaurant critic for "St. Louis Magazine", helps readers make those decisions and, in effect, become what he calls "sushi snobs." Although potentially useful abroad, this book focuses on what's found in American sushi restaurants. The text is organized into three parts: a profile of the different types of rice and sushi preparation methods, including seasonal and regional variations; an A-to-Z listing of fish and other ingredients; and coverage of side dishes, rituals, utensils, and sushi chef training. The author deftly defines the many sushi terms and uses romanized English spelling for Japanese words similar to those found on menus. Readers looking for recipes and preparation tips will be disappointed, but those seeking to maximize their sushi dining experiences will be delighted. Recommended for special collections and public libraries where there is local interest. -Andrea Dietze, Orange Cty. P.L., Santa Ana, CA

Copyright 2005 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.