Cook, Eat, Repeat

February 15, 2021
Cooking is by necessity an endless repetition, Lawson (At My Table, 2018) proclaims in her latest compendium of recipes from her imaginative kitchen. But repetition doesn't by any means have to yield dull conformity. With this cookbook, Lawson reveals her mastery not only of the stove but also of the essay. Each recipe comes with extensive reflections on hospitality, family, cooking techniques, and ingredients that frame and give meaning to her creative British cuisine. While there are a few British Isles dishes, such as colcannon and trifle, influences from India, North Africa, and Italy tend to draw more attention. In a lengthy disquisition, Lawson reveals her intense passion for anchovies. Aversion to waste leads her to devise a curry out of banana peels. Many of the recipes are designed for just two, perfect for cooking in times of pandemic. Lawson comes to the defense of brown foods, such as stews and braises, which in the age of Instagram are too often dismissed as not photogenic enough. Nevertheless, her book swells with splendid full-color photographs.

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Starred review from May 1, 2021

The latest offering from acclaimed chef Lawson features her signature blend of innovative recipes and epicurean storytelling. Lawson has long promoted the sense of wellbeing and emotional nourishment that home cooking can provide in busy modern life; her philosophy shines through here. The collection contains over 150 recipes, with something for every reader, whether they're planning a simple solo supper or hosting an elaborate dinner party. The unconventional mix of essays, traditional recipes, and looser narrative recipes is part of the collection's appeal; it provides specific guidance and instruction for certain dishes alongside wide-ranging inspiration for culinary exploration. Some chapters highlight a particular ingredient; other chapters gather inspired dinner menus, including many suggestions for make-ahead vegetables and sides. Readers will find some vegan and gluten-free options, and all of the cake recipes offer a gluten-free alternative. VERDICT This collection of family-friendly dishes that are on repeat in the Lawson household is sure to become a favorite for devotees and new readers alike.--Kelsy Peterson, Brighton Grammar Sch., Melbourne, Australia

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