Hungry for Paris

April 14, 2008
A Paris vacation in book form, this volume travels from the glittering restaurants of the Boulevard St.-Germain to the grittier haunts of Belleville and Clichy, offering insights into classic bistros, new favorites and even a smattering of ethnic cheapies (the sorts of dining establishments that Parisians themselves have only just started getting used to). Lobrano, European correspondent for Gourmet magazine, is an observant and dedicated restaurant-hound, noting the peculiarities of a certain proprietor at one brasserie, recording the exact temperature at which oysters are served at another. No entry is longer than two or three pages, but rest assured they're fully stocked with strong opinions and recommendations; happily, Lobrano is unafraid to challenge culinary convention, calling L'Ami Louis, long a brutally expensive stop on the "when in Paris" tour, "a pretty egregious example of conspicuous consumption... especially when you can find better roast chicken and foie gras anywhere." Not since Patricia Wells's classic Food Lover's Guide to Paris has a guidebook given readers such a mouthwatering tour of the City of Lights.