French Roots

July 7, 2014
When French-born Chez Panisse executive chef Jean-Pierre Moullé and Denise Lurton of the Bourdeaux wine-exporting family connected in 1970s Berkeley during the Bay Area food revolution, they united the groundbreaking food culture of California with the culinary traditions of their native France. These “restless rule breakers” describe their lifelong journey between two continents and offer up 100 distinctively French-inspired recipes, which reflect a love of both innovation and tradition. They describe how “country lives” in two countries connect them to seasonal rhythms and local food sources and inspire their respect for ingredients, self-sufficiency, flexibility, and simplicity in cooking. The Moullés take readers to kitchens of their childhood, Chez Panisse in Berkeley and Denise’s Bordeaux kitchen, and list recipes both inspired: grilled duck breast with black currants and cassis; warm foie gras with onion confit; and ratatouille tart. Desserts include claufoutis; gateau au chocolat with ganache; and lemon verbena ice cream. There’s a section on aperitifs, toasts, wine pairings and history. The Moullés serve up inspiration for living and eating well.

December 1, 2014

Like Hubert Keller's Souvenirs, this cookbook from former Chez Panisse executive chef Moulle and his wife, Denise, pairs rich memories of family traditions and professional milestones with classic French recipes, including poached Eastern skate with shallot vinaigrette, stuffed tomatoes with tuna and herbs, and spring vegetable ragout. Connecting their French roots to their love of California cuisine, the authors reflect on Berkeley in the Seventies and after, the resemblance of the French aperitif to the American cocktail, and other topics. VERDICT Readers who have an active imaginary life in France will relish poring over this cookbook's extensive narrative. Fans of Chez Panisse will enjoy pairing it with titles from other chef alums, such as David Tanis and David Lebovitz.

Copyright 2014 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

August 1, 2014
For decades the chef at Alice Waters' Chez Panisse, Jean-Pierre Moull' initiated California palates into the flavors and textures of genuine French provincial cooking. Using the finest, freshest ingredients from the Bay area, he showed how French cooking, though never simplistic, built on uncomplicated combinations of meats, vegetables, and fruits in imaginative and attractive presentations and served in well-planned courses with appropriate and superior wines. He starts out with dishes from his native Bordeaux region. His cassoulet presents a challenge to an ambitious chef, but his baked endives in ham and cheese are fine for a less experienced cook. Recipes arising from the heyday seventies illustrate the beginnings of California cuisine. Returning to Bordeaux, both Moull's demonstrate their homeland's good cooking with grilled eel and his grandmother's hazelnut cake. Then wife Denise rings in with some vegetable-centric recipes using cauliflower and parsnips. An appendix details Bordeaux's wines beyond its eminent first growths.(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2014, American Library Association.)