American Cider

December 7, 2020
Sommelier Pucci and food journalist Cavallo impress in this deeply researched account of the history of apple cider, its emergence in colonial America, and how there came to be nearly 1,000 producers of it across the country. Cider’s earliest roots, they write, can be found in Greco-Roman culture, with records of production dating back to 64 BCE. Norman conquerors brought the craft to England in the 11th century, and centuries later it found its way to the colonies, where it came to embody “the best and worst of America’s history and agricultural practices.” Thomas Jefferson, for instance, learned to make cider from his enslaved cidermaker and butler, Jupiter Evans, and during the Revolutionary War, George Washington’s troops wiped out apple orchards planted by Indigenous peoples who sided with the British. As to the production of cider itself, the authors note, “Cidermaking is more analogous to winemaking, relying only on a seasonal harvest and then fermentation.” A survey of contemporary producers rounds things out, with notable operations including Angry Orchard in Walden, N.Y., which makes a Basque-inspired cider and collaborates with other producers across the globe, and Liberty Ciderworks in Spokane, Wash., whose signature Manchurian Crabapple SV Cider is blended with a small amount of McIntosh and Cortland apples. This fascinating guide will appeal to history buffs and imbibers alike.

February 1, 2021

In this in-depth look at the booming hard cider industry, cider expert Pucci (who formerly worked at Wassail, New York City's first cider bar and restaurant) and food writer and caf� owner Cavallo attempt to cover the history of the beverage along with the mechanics of producing it, while also offering glimpses into its future. This project leads them to growers, cidermakers, and orchardists who recount the long history of cider and its resurgence in the 21st century. The bulk of the book, however, is divided into eight geographical U.S. areas, with each examining the unique geology and agricultural nature of the region and the key cider apple varieties that thrived there. Illustrations and maps are included throughout. VERDICT Much like an atlas of wine, this detailed study gives cider its due as a complex sophisticated beverage, affected as much by terroir and apple varietals as a French Burgundy or a California Chardonnay. The focus on regional distinctions provides insight and discernment for a product regaining popularity throughout the United States.--Susan Hurst, Miami Univ. Libs., Oxford, OH

Copyright 2021 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

March 1, 2021
In the past few decades the number of cideries, the apple equivalent of wineries, has risen tenfold in America. An early American favorite, cider fell out of favor, eclipsed by beer and wine. Then tourists to Britain brought back tales of ciders consumed in pubs and wondered why there were few, if any, here. Now Americans of all stripes have discovered cider's unique pleasures, and cider makers all across the country have developed markets for their wares. Prominent in all this are those dedicated orchardists who propagate all sorts of varieties of apples, not for eating or baking but for their superior qualities in cider production. Cider expert Pucci and food writer Cavallo have meticulously searched out cider makers old and new all across the land and have categorized their output. Laying the groundwork by discussing geologic, geographic, and climatic foundations of apple propagation, they inventory and attempt to describe the unique apple varieties these orchardists raise and the people who manage those groves. This is a good, comprehensive guide to this once-again popular, refreshing quaff.

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