Brilliance and Fire

April 25, 2016
Bergstein (Women from the Ankle Down) explores the allure of the diamond business and the nefarious rise of the De Beers corporate empire. This captivating journey through recent history features intriguing characters such as Elizabeth Taylor, whose legendary extravagance is epitomized by the purchase of a 69-carat diamond in 1966; Helen Ver Standig, deemed the queen of imitation diamonds; and designer Jacob Arabo, who tapped new markets by transforming the diamond into a hip-hop social status symbol. The De Beers story begins with the shrewdly ruthless machinations of Cecil Rhodes, and continues through the wholesale invention of the modern engagement ring by the brilliant women of N.W. Ayer advertising. Bergstein outlines the thoroughness of the ad campaign—Ayer employed a “resident lecturer” for a high-school circuit tour to indoctrinate teenagers—and the establishment of the two months’ salary guideline for the cost of an engagement ring. In addition to the De Beers story, she narrates the rise of slightly less corrupt industry notables such as Tiffany & Co., Cartier, and Harry Winston. Bergstein’s account weaves disparate elements, including celebrity gossip, South African apartheid, and global economics, into a highly entertaining product, and her criticism of De Beers is significant, balanced, and diligently researched.

April 1, 2016

Bergstein (Women from the Ankle Down: The Story of Shoes and How They Define Us) chronicles America's love affair with diamonds in order to understand the cultural fascination with these specific gemstones. The story begins in the Gilded Age, explaining how the diamond industry changed once plentiful jewels were discovered in South Africa. Profiled are famous people connected to the business, including mining magnate Cecil Rhodes and jeweler Harry Winston, along with accounts of notable stones and other acclaimed jewelers. Winding throughout the narrative are the continued machinations of the famed diamond syndicate De Beers, which has used its considerable power to control the diamond market. In fact, Bergstein shows that De Beers has applied its advertising prowess to shape American taste and purchasing habits, including the establishment of the diamond engagement ring tradition. The symbiotic relationship among De Beers, jewelers, and celebrities is featured prominently. Later chapters address conflict diamonds as well as synthetic and imitation gems. VERDICT A captivating look into the world of diamonds that will be of interest to all readers.--Rebekah Kati, Durham, NC

Copyright 2016 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

April 15, 2016
Bergstein (Women from the Ankle Down: The Story of Shoes and How They Define Us, 2012) provides a history of diamond mining and marketing that reveals the deadly world behind this magical stone.Cecil Rhodes (1853-1902) must get the credit and blame for cornering the modern-day market when diamonds were discovered in South Africa. After absorbing the Kimberley Mine, Rhodes dominated every aspect of the diamond industry, from mining to distribution to marketing. He bought up and bought out others, and when diamonds were found in Tanzania, Botswana, Lesotho and off the coast of Namibia, he controlled them, as well. His business plan was to control output and stockpile stones to ensure the rarity of the gems and raise prices. He had a complete monopoly by 1888, and his company became De Beers. Rhodes was the prime minister of the Cape Colony, founder of Rhodesia, and the author of the injustices of apartheid. In addition to this history, Bergstein has great fun exploring the customers for these diamonds, whether they were royalty, Hollywood stars, or rappers. Probably the most interesting part of the book deals with the jewelers and the crafters who knew their customers and invented new ways to adorn them. The great designers--Cartier, Tiffany, Harry Winston, and Bulgari--often took chances, and they paid off. De Beers' best move came in 1938 when they hired N.W. Ayer & Son to advertise their product: the company came up with the idea of diamond engagement rings and the slogan "a diamond is forever." De Beers couldn't control the market forever, however, and soon the Japanese, the Australians, and the Canadians were nibbling away. Competition, the advent of synthetic and imitation diamonds, and the conflict (or blood) diamond crisis all play a part in this fascinating story, well told by the author. Bergstein's book is an informative, well-written, and entertaining window onto another way of life.

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