The Dressmaker

August 2, 2010
Big girls in 19th-century England don't cry in Graeme-Evans's light tale about a plucky heroine who endures a series of harsh trials on her way to becoming London's leading dressmaker. Things start to go south for curate's daughter Ellen Gowan on her 13th birthday, when the dress Connie, her mother, makes her, entices one of her father's students to steal a kiss. Scandal and ruination seem imminent when her father dies, forcing mother and daughter to seek refuge with Connie's sister, who lives in terror of her baronet husband. There, Ellen's friendship with her cousin, Oriana, blossoms, until once again a young man stirs trouble, and Connie and Ellen land in London, where Connie succumbs to illness and Ellen marries a cad who leaves her pregnant and alone. But with a little help from friends, family, and unlikely sources, Ellen becomes the go-to creator of "all manner of finery" for England's most prominent families. Yes, it's formulaic, far-fetched, and soppy with sentiment, but it's also a lot of fun, and Graeme-Evans (The Innocent) is unapologetic in her celebration of the joys of pretty clothes and the thrills of overcoming adversity.

August 15, 2010

Rags-to-riches saga of a fashionable London couturière, from Tasmania resident Graeme-Evans (The Uncrowned Queen, 2006, etc.).

In 1843, cast adrift by widowhood, Constance Gowan, with daughter Ellen, 13, in tow, turns to the family that had disowned her after her elopement with Edwin, a penniless scholar. Her sister Daisy, unhappily married to cruel Sir Isidore, a prominent and much older barrister, welcomes Constance and Ellen to Isidore's mansion, Shene House. For a while, existence at Shene is almost pleasant—Ellen and her older cousin Oriana are like sisters, and Ellen enjoys having new gowns made for her by Madame de Valentin, an exiled French aristocrat turned dressmaker to the gentry. At a ball, the girls meet Connor, and Ellen is smitten but disappointed when Connor courts Oreana. After Isidore strikes Constance (he's been abusing Daisy for years), the Gowans flee to Angelique's atelier. Constance, a gifted seamstress and Ellen, talented at drawing and design, are earning their keep, but Constance, disturbed by the mutual attraction growing between Angelique's rakish son Raoul and Ellen, insists that they move to London to open a dress shop. After only a day in London, Constance, ailing from consumption, dies. Raoul inveigles Ellen, now 15, into marrying him, but deserts her when she becomes pregnant. She winds up at a clothing factory, but her skill quickly nets her a promotion. When daughter Connie is born (and, after foiling Raoul's scheme to sell the baby!), Ellen takes refuge at Clairmallon, the great house Oriana shares with her now husband Connor. Still intent on founding her own London fashion emporium, Ellen, staked by Connor, opens Chez Miss Constance. The enterprise struggles until Lady Hawksmoor is seen at a royal reception wearing one of Ellen's creations. Immediately a bevy of socialites is beating down her door. Raoul, whose gigolo appeal is waning, again sees potential profit in his marriage.

The book could serve as a costumer's reference for period fashion, but Ellen is simply too perfect to be the believable protagonist of an up-from-adversity story.

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